Pamper Pet Care Blog/Best Pet Vitamins

YES and YES.

As a concerned dog owner, you should be avoiding as many ‘un-natural’ ingredients as possible.  Here is what you should be looking for in a Quality, natural supplement: Read the rest of this entry »

One of the difficult tasks that you face as a dog owner is choosing what food to give your dog.  This is one of the most common questions I receive everyday from readers.  When you step inside any pet store or any supermarket to buy your dog’s dog food, you are immediately bombarded by mountains of colorful, well decorated and eye catching commercial dog food.

Some people decide on a certain dog food because of its catchy name, clever advertising or because of all the adjectives like
“super”, “champion” and “complete”.  But let me ask you this;

When was the last time you really read and understood the dog food’s label properly?

Are you aware of all the contents of what you’re feeding your dog?

Are you aware of what common human foods we eat that can seriously harm or even kill your dog?

Are you sure he/she is receiving the proper nutrients?

Remember that not all dog foods contain the right amount of nutrients to nourish your dog which is why vigilance is a necessity
when choosing the right dog food for your dog.  Many  dogs get canine diseases because of malnutrition that could and does result in early deaths.

Not all dog foods contain enough nutrients that can truly nourish your dog. So, if you truly want to give the best dog food for your dog you
have 2 options; first is to research the commercially made dog food carefully and the second is to make your own healthy dog food.

Since I have been receiving a lot of suggestions from you all about recipes of healthy homemade dog food, today I will be giving you
some healthy dog food recipes that you can find in my ebook, Pamper Your Dog Homemade Recipes, I know that a lot of you must be eager to hear these recipes so let’s proceed!

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BEEF OR LAMB STEW FOR DOGS
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Ingredients:

* 1 lb low fat beef or lamb

* 3 potatoes

* 3 carrots

* 2 Tbsp Olive Oil

* 2 celery sticks

* 2 pints chicken or beef broth

Directions:

1. Brown meat in saute pan in 2 Tbsp oil. Cook till brown.

2. Stew the meat in broth for 45 minutes. Add vegetables. Cover.

3. Simmer for 45 minutes until all are softened.

4. Cool and serve.

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SALMON & PASTA FOR DOGS
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Ingredients:

* 1 salmon steak or other fish fillet

* 1/4 cup unsalted chicken broth

* 1/2 cup cooked pasta

* 1/2 cup steamed mixed veggies (carrots, spinach, zucchini)

* 1-2 Tbsp olive oil

Directions:

1. Saute salmon steak or other fish in pan 5 minutes on each side
with 1 Tbsp olive oil.

2. Cook pasta and add to salmon in pan with chicken broth and
veggies.

3. Simmer for 10 minutes and serve after cooling.
Fresh, holistic dog food doesn’t have to be fancy or difficult.
It just has to be made from fresh ingredients, served
immediately, and kept for no more than three days in the
refrigerator.

Dogs don’t usually like cold food, so when serving their dinner,
leave the dish out till it can be served at room temperature.

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ICY PAWS – DOG FOOD RECIPE
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Ingredients:

* 2 (32 oz) plain or vanilla Yogurt

* 16 oz can of Tuna in water

* 2 tsp Garlic Powder

* 24 3 oz plastic (not paper) bathroom cups.

Directions:

1. Mix all and scoop into bathroom cups.

2. Place on tray and freeze overnight. Can add veggies, mashed
bananas or substitute canned chicken for tuna.

I hope you and your dog enjoy these recipes. : )

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WHY PORK SHOULDN’T BE FEED TO DOGS
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For one, PIGS are SCAVENGERS and will eat ANY kind of food, INCLUDING dead insects, worms, rotting carcasses, excreta  including their own, garbage, and other pigs.  There are many diseases carried from swine to man, particularly parasite infestations. Also, Pigs do not have sweat glands which mean that toxins are not eliminated.

Although, Pork (this includes bacon, ham, pork chop, etc.) in itself is as harmless to dogs as chicken, beef or any other meat, there is a slight risk of your dog being infected with trichinosis by eating pork.

Trichinosis, also known as trichinellosis, is a worldwide, food borne disease caused by an intestinal roundworm, uncommon in the United States.
Both humans and pets that eat raw or undercooked meat of infected animals can develop the disease. Undercooked or raw meat of infected animals contains the roundworm. The disease can lead to muscle soreness and pain together with swelling of the upper eyelids in mild cases but can lead to more severe symptoms.

If you would like to feed pork but want to take all necessary precautions, it is recommended that the pork be frozen for 3 weeks to kill the parasite. The most important precaution is to make sure that all fresh pork and pork products are properly cooked. Other raw and undercooked meat should also be avoided, especially meat from wild animals.

Another reason why dogs shouldn’t be fed Pork is the fact that Pork is very rich and contains a thick fat that is indigestible to dogs. It irritates their stomach and can cause them to become very ill (High fat content food causes pancreatitis and pork and turkey skin is the leading cause).

GLUTEN ALLERGIES

Another problem that dog owners are left dumbfounded and confused is when their dogs suffer from some kind of allergy. There are a lot of different kinds of allergies that your dogs may already have or acquire in the future.  But today I will be focusing specifically on GLUTEN
SENSITIVITY.

I actually received an email from a subscriber about how she didn’t know that cause of her dog’s allergy was which resulted in a lot of
medication for her dog.  But after she changed to another dog food, her dog’s allergy became better and in a few more days was gone. It seems that the allergy was because of her dog’s reaction to gluten. So, thank you very much for sharing your story. :  )

Let’s talk more about GLUTEN SENSITIVTY shall we?

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GLUTEN SENSITIVITY
====================

Gluten allergy, medically described as celiac disease, is a fairly common food allergy in canines.  It can develop at any point in a dog’s life and manifests a variety of symptoms, including skin and bowel problems. After diagnosis, a lifelong change in diet is usually required to treat the condition.

But what is GLUTEN?

Gluten is a protein found in wheat and many other flours that’s often added to commercial pet food.  Dogs, like humans and other animals, can develop a sensitivity or allergy to it if through repeat exposure or as an acute reaction to a single exposure.  Gluten allergy causes the inflammation and destruction of the interior of the small intestine, thus preventing nutrients and vitamins from being properly absorbed.

Moreover, gluten irritates the large intestine, causing colitis, which results in bowel problems.  Food allergies at large account for about 10 percent of dog allergies.

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WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS?
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Symptoms of gluten allergy include itchy, flaky, and subsequently irritated skin as well as upset bowels.  Other symptoms include hypertension, weight loss, lack of energy and changes in behavior.

In the past, the only way to diagnose a food allergy was to replace the existing diet with one containing none of the same ingredients. Today, a simple blood test can indicate an allergy, although the exclusion diet is still widely employed.

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WHAT TO DO?
————–

Gluten is ubiquitous in processed pet food and treats and is sometimes omitted from listing on ingredient labels because of its implicit presence in other substances (this includes wheat, cereals and products of animal or vegetable origin).  As such, foods explicitly labeled gluten free or homemade meals are the best option for dogs with gluten allergy.

A true allergy cannot but cured, thus the allergen must be removed from the animal’s diet and avoided.  A lifelong food can gradually become an irritant or even an allergy over time, thus making initial diagnosis difficult.  While a homemade food is the best option for pet owners, there are many varieties of gluten-free diets, although getting a dog to change foods can be difficult.  Other common food allergies in dogs include corn, soya, preservatives, beef, pork, chicken, milk, eggs and fish.

To truly limit your pet from developing allergies would be to make your own pet food and include a quality supplement. For more information on both please visit Pamper Pet Care today.

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FACTS ABOUT FLEAS
*******************

Dealing with scratching that’s caused by fleas is another common doggy problem that we face. No matter where you live or what weather you’re having, FLEA problems are always there to greet you. Although some may think of it as a minor problem, it should be dealt with properly and with caution. According to some sources, Fleas can be a source of both irritation and disease. Dogs and cats scratch constantly when heavily infested, resulting in soiled and roughened coats and, sometimes, in nervous conditions.

The most serious effects occur when a pet develops an allergy to flea bites. As few as one or two bites can cause severe itching and scratching in allergic pets. Fleas that have fed on rodents may transmit diseases, including plague and murine typhus.  For this reason, avoid close contact with wild rodents such as squirrels, rats and prairie dogs.  Their fleas can bite you and may transmit disease.

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TREATING YOUR DOG
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BATHING
———

Your pet’s first line of defense against fleas is a flea comb and a good bath. Soap acts as a gentle insecticide and helps control light infestations on your pet. Though time consuming, combing helps reduce the need for insecticides. Flea combs have fine teeth that remove adult fleas from fur.  Most dogs seem to enjoy this treatment; pay special attention to the face and neck, and the area in front of the tail.

Dip the comb frequently in soapy water or an alcohol solution to kill fleas removed from the pet.

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NATURAL OILS
————–

There are nature’s repellants that can ward off fleas.  Most common ingredients are citronella, cedar, eucalyptus, lemongrass, and lavender.

Essential oils are specially formulated to repel fleas and ticks without using insecticides.  They are great for misting your dog’s legs any time that you go out where fleas would be likely to be found.  They are a repellant, not an insecticide, though. They can be found at most good health food stores.

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SPOT TREATMENT
—————

Spot Treatments are the new front line in the flea battle. Applied only once a month, some will actually repel a significant number of fleas.
This is a great benefit to the allergic pet that cannot tolerate even one bite. The best will also help prevent re-infestation by rendering the
fleas unable to reproduce. If you plan to use this process I suggest that you visit for vet before buying a spot treatment product.

Remember more expensive is not always more efficient. So, because you asked for it, here are some homemade concoctions that can help your dog overcome some ailments.  But before starting, let me just remind everybody that these homemade remedies may help your dog but it’s still highly advised that you seek help from your vet.

Here we go…

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FLEA REMOVER
==============

——————
DISHWASHING SOAP
——————

Any brand of dishwashing liquid soap is a good flea remedy for dogs. Dishwashing liquid soap contains certain oils that kill any fleas
hiding in the dog’s fur.  It doesn’t dry the dog’s fur out, like some other flea shampoos.

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LEMON
——
A natural flea eliminator is lemon. Slice a lemon. Pour boiling water over it.  After letting it sit overnight, spray the water on the dog.

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BLEEDING
=========

Apply pressure right away. If this does not stop the bleeding, fasten a tourniquet close to the wound and between the wound and
the heart. Go to the vet immediately!

==============================
FOR SOME DOGGY SKIN AILEMENTS
==============================

* Dab with milk of magnesia to calm irritated skin.

* Aloe vera from plants and creams. Apply gel directly on the spot.

You can also dilute with water, put it in a spray bottle and spray it on the spot.

* Dab with organic apple cider vinegar

* Apply a mixture of baking soda and water to the affected areas.

This also helps soothe itchy human skin in case you, too, have a sting, rash or poison ivy.

* Petroleum jelly or Bag Balm use either to seal in moisture. Also
excellent for chaffed paw pads.

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SUNBURN OR MINOR BURN
======================

If your pet gets a burn or sunburn, see your veterinarian. You can bathe the pet in an oatmeal-type bath or with Aveeno.  Apply towel soaked with cold water soaks or an ice packs for 20 minutes.  Wash gently with mild soap, clipping back hair if necessary.  Blot dry, then apply an antibiotic ointment such as Neosporin. You can protect the area by gently taping gauze dressing around it or wrapping in a dry towel.

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CHEMICAL AND ACID BURNS
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Flush chemical burns with a lot of fresh water.

Apply an ice pack for 15 to 20 minutes. Do not place an ice pack directly on the skin. Instead, wrap the pack in a light towel or cloth.
Neutralize acid on the skin by rinsing with a solution of baking soda and water. Neutralize alkali with a weak vinegar-water solution.
Blot dry, apply antibiotic ointment and tape gauze dressing loosely around the affected area.  Olive oil can also be applied. See your vet.
For more serious burns, wrap the burn in a soft, clean cloth or towel, treat for shock, and go immediately to the vet or emergency animal hospital.

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RINGWORM
==========

Cleanliness is key to prevention and treatment.

First, wash bedding in hot water and bleach. Use bleach to clean wherever you can, and discard brushes, combs, beds and toys that could lead to re-infestation.  Treat the affected animal with an iodine-based shampoo, followed by an anti-fungal cream on the infected parts.  Sometimes lime sulphur dips are used. Sometimes oral medication is also prescribed for severe cases.  Since ringworm can continue to live in the spore stage for many months, an animal who does not have active spots could still have a flare-up.  Most ringworm infections in dogs are self-limiting unless the animal has immune system problems or metabolic diseases such as diabetes, or are on steroids.  See your vet for treatment guidance.

Again, let me remind you that although these homemade cures can help your dog, it’s still advised that you seek the help of your vet.

Potty training has always been one of the biggest problems that any dog owner will face.  It’s really vital that we teach our dogs the proper place to do their business because, let’s face it, I don’t think any dog owner would like to step on the little gifts that their pets may leave behind.

So, today let me give you some tips to guide you in this process.

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POTTY TRAINING TIPS
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It is always good NOT to get a puppy before the age of 8-10 weeks. Puppies raised with a litter are usually taught by their mother to go potty away from their bed.  Dogs, by nature, keep their sleeping area clean.  Potty training does not go by how old the puppy is, but by how mature it is.  Larger dogs take longer to mature than a smaller dog. Keep that in mind when you are training. One pup may grasp the idea of potty training quicker than another.

—————————-
TAKING YOUR PUPPY OUTSIDE
—————————-

You’ll have to take your puppy outside when:

* they wake up from a nap.

* after they play for 10-15 minutes.

* after they eat.

* when you notice them looking around.

When it is time to take your puppy outside to go potty, go outside with them.  This is very important! If you don’t go outside with your puppy, how will you know your puppy went potty and didn’t just play in the yard?  Take your puppy to the same spot each time.  Your puppy at 8 weeks has a very small bladder and bowel.    You will fill that you are taking your puppy outside a lot. By taking them out frequently, you are allowing your puppy to learn quickly.

—————–
PUPPY ACCIDENTS
—————–

As your puppy goes potty, praise them and give them a treat or play for a short time afterward.  Soon they will associate the praise, treat and play with going potty.  To prevent mistakes, closely supervise your puppy.  It’s your responsibility to make sure that the puppy gets outside to go potty.   Young puppies will eventually have an “accident”.  Don’t punish or scold your pup or rub his nose in “it”.

Much to popular belief, rubbing their nose in their urine or fecal matter does nothing to help the puppy.  This may just help him to understand that he should not go potty in front of you.  Instead, very calmly, take your puppy out to the designated potty spot.

——————–
CLEAN SOILED AREA
——————–

Clean up the soiled area well with a cleaner that removes the odor. If a smell lingers, he may try relieving himself there again. If you praise your puppy when he does go potty outside, soon he will associate praise and reward for going potty outside.

Also, NEVER forget that you’re still dealing with a puppy, which means you have to be extremely patient and consistent in teaching him the right procedures for this process.  Remember that no matter how great a tip is without the proper motivation, patience and consistency it will just go to waste.

Don’t worry; going through this process and finally succeeding really gives you that feeling of achievement and pride. So, just hang in there. : )

Most people have heard the saying, “You can’t teach an old dog new tricks.” And like all cliches, this one may have a small nugget of
truth. But for the most part, if it’s done correctly, an older dog can be taught not only new tricks, but new behaviors in general.  Remember that there are actually advantages in teaching adult dogs compared to little puppies. For one, some adult dogs already understand the meaning of ‘no’. A older dog is also calmer and is less energetic compared to puppies. They also understand the hierarchy and will likely to accept your leadership.

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OBEDIENCE TRAINING AN OLDER DOG
———————————

If you do plan to train your dog yourself, here are several approaches to consider:

* Older methods employ devices like choke collars and leashes to
control the dog’s behavior and provide an uncomfortable stimulus
when the dog doesn’t comply.

Training techniques following these principles are still used by some trainers, but are largely falling out of favor compared to more humane, modern methods.

* Newer training techniques employ some type of reward system to
encourage your dog to engage in the desired behavior, and are
based on the principle of rewarding right behavior, while
ignoring bad.

Basically, you get your dog to do what you want him to do, and then give him a reward for doing so.

* Repeat again and again, until the behavior is reinforced and
habitual.

You keep the behavior by continuing to use rewards on an occasional – and unpredictable – basis.   But here too, there are several different approaches:

* One approach favors the use of toys, praise, petting, and other
non-food rewards. The most common of the newer approaches uses a
food-based reward system, which most dogs seem to respond well
to.

* “Clicker” training employs food or treats in combination with a
clicker, or sound-maker, and then transitions to voice commands
once the desired behavior is established.

All of these newer techniques should work fine with your older dog. Just be sure you always treat, especially in the beginning, whenever your dog performs as you ask, and be very slow to reprimand. Keep it fun and positive and you’ll be pleasantly surprised at how quickly your older dog picks up good obedience behaviors!

Know let’s look at some advantages and disadvantages of HARNESSES and COLLARS shall we?

Let’s start with…

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COLLARS
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Dog collars are ideal when you’re training the animal for tricks or drills, or when you want to attach a dog tag, which is actually mandatory in some states. However, there’s one huge problem with them: they could potentially harm the delicate necks of small dogs. Dog collars, specifically the halter types, can be truly uncomfortable for your petite furry friend.

As a matter of fact, if they are worn too tight, they will not only hurt the throat, but can also restrict them from breathing properly. Moreover, the more that these small dogs will pull away from you, the more that dog collars will bury deep into their skin.   Worse, if a leash is attached to the dog collar and the pet suddenly turns to one side, it could result to a very serious neck injury. Alternatively an accidental jerk on the lead could damage their spine.

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HARNESSES
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For health reasons, protection, and comfort, harnesses are always the best choice for your small dogs. First of all, it can relieve your small pet from neck strain, which usually happens whenever he moves or runs around too fast and you’re trying to control him. Since the harness is fitted comfortable around his chest, every time he pulls away, the weight is evenly distributed throughout his shoulders.

There is no risk of throat injury, and no more of the choking sound. A harness is also very comfortable to wear, since the materials used are incredibly soft. They don’t cause any chafing or matting in your dogs’ fur. The most popular dog harnesses are made of soft mesh, nylon, or suede.  What’s more, they are very easy to clean and are highly durable. They can last for several months or even years.

So, to sum it up…

Collars and harnesses are made of the same materials and serve the same purpose–attaching your dog to a leash. But they work in different ways and some dogs will do better with one versus the other.

Use a collar: If your dog has no respiratory or trachea problems and doesn’t pull on leash.

Use a harness or head halter: If your dog pulls on leash or has respiratory or trachea problems.